To turn the kayak I had to change the support in the external strong back. I hung the kayak in slings to the ceiling and altered the support then lowered the kayak into it.

The next problem to solve is the big change in deck angle for the first strips at the shear. At the ends the strip is almost laying flat so the side of the strip will touch the edge of the last hull strip. Two frames from the end the edge of the strip has to make contact with the hull. How do I bevel that?

I want a dark small strip between deck and hull. So I have to rip those first.

I started at the stern. After fairing the stern with the spokeshave I glued a thin strip on the stern which I formed with the heat gun. I made the stem out of five layers. Four layers of 3 mm teak with one layer of poplar in between all formed with the heat gun. I did not trust myself in gluing all the layers in one step. I did it in three steps. The glue was a polyurethane glue, the fast setting type so I could do it in one evening. After hardening  I formed it with the spokeshave and the ROS.

As usual I made mistakes. The first layer of my stem was poplar. At the start of the stem in the keel, there is nothing left of the hard teak. So next time I will start with the hardwood layers. The second mistake was not reading the book KayakCraft by Ted More. He describes perfectly how to handle. I did not make a slot to connect the inner and the outer stem, but it looks alright. The mistake that will give the most work is that I sawed it to short at the end.

At the bow I did better but as you can see it bends down at the end. To much material removed.  I will sort that out later.